The Evolving Terminology Surrounding the Japanese American Wartime Experience

Words matter immensely.

They hold a subtle, quiet power to them that can inspire change, educate people, incite violence, topple empires, and dismantle archaic laws.

They evoke strong feelings and emotions from us as individuals. 

They can reduce and dismiss important topics and events by using euphemisms and lesser words, or they can convey the importance of something by using direct and strong vocabulary.

This is why terminology is so important. 

It recently came to my attention that the terminology surrounding the Japanese American (JA) wartime experience has been changing and evolving in a large way. It’s a topic that has been discussed since the mid to late 20th century; however, it’s become more “mainstream” over the past few years, as big JA organizations have been promoting the terminology movement and intentionally moving away from using the word “internment” and using “concentration camp” instead.

A few months ago, I wrote and published a two-part article about my grandma’s time in the camps. At the time of writing it, I was still using the word “internment camp” because I was unaware of the nuances in JA terminology. I would use words like “incarceration,” “internment,” “relocation camp,” and others synonymously because that was what I was used to seeing throughout my numerous sources of research. Internment camp is still the most popular term used to describe the camps by the general (mostly non-JA-affiliated) media and public. After the publishing of my second article, I was notified of the change by some vitriolic attacks on Instagram regarding my misuse of “internment.” The attacks became so vicious that I ended up feeling threatened by someone who posted my private Instagram page to her story in order to encourage her followers to go to the post and attack me further. I had to block her. The post itself contained a photograph of my beautiful, deceased grandma in whose memory I wrote this article. The barrage of attacks against me and then my publisher under her image were incredibly disrespectful and an insult to her memory. I spoke with my publisher, and we agreed to edit my two articles by removing instances of the word “internment” and adding in a disclaimer about it. While I don’t like to give in to bullies, there was an important point hidden underneath all the vitriol. That is what initially inspired me to write this article, so I researched the subject further. What I’ve discovered is truly interesting and provided insight on the importance of terminology in all aspects of life, history, and social justice.

DENSHO AND TERMINOLOGY

Densho is a leading organization in the JA community that I’ve had the pleasure of watching grow from a small online encyclopedia to the powerhouse that it is today. They were a research source for my undergraduate senior thesis. I used them again for an essay for my MA in history, and now for this article. I’ve kept up with them through the years over social media and am impressed with how much they’ve grown over the seven or eight years since I discovered them. The organization’s mission is “to preserve and share history of the WWII incarceration of Japanese Americans to promote equity and justice today.” They document the testimonies of Japanese Americans who were incarcerated in the camps, offering firsthand accounts, historical pictures, teacher resources, and other kinds of content geared towards education and promoting the principles of equal justice for all. Their page on terminology is frequently cited by various people, organizations, and sources. https://densho.org/terminology/

Densho addresses four important distinctions: forced removal versus “evacuation,” incarceration vs “internment,” Japanese American versus “Japanese,” and concentration camps versus “relocation centers.” The following explanation is directly from their terminology page.

Forced removal vs “evacuation”

“In early 1942, Japanese Americans were forcibly removed from the West Coast and forbidden to return. The government called this an ‘evacuation,’ implying the forced move was a precaution for Japanese Americans’ own safety, as in a natural disaster. In reality, this was a targeted exile of a single ethnic minority—carried out by armed soldiers, enforced by lawmakers and elected officials, and motivated, in part, by a desire to reap economic gains from the farmland and property Japanese Americans were forced to leave behind. ‘Exclusion’ and ‘mass removal’ are therefore more apt than euphemisms such as ‘evacuation’ and ‘relocation,’ because Japanese Americans were expelled from the West Coast and subject to arrest if they returned.”

Incarceration vs “internment”

The commonly used term ‘internment’ fails to accurately describe what happened to Japanese Americans during WWII. ‘Internment’ refers to the legally permissible, though morally questionable, detention of ‘enemy aliens’ in time of war. There were approximately 8,000 Issei (‘first generation’) arrested as enemy aliens and subjected to what could be described as ‘internment’ in a separate set of camps run by the Army or Department of Justice.* This term becomes a misleading, othering euphemism when applied to American citizens detained by their own government; yet two-thirds of Japanese Americans incarcerated during WWII were U.S. citizens by birth and right.

Although ‘internment’ is a recognized and widely used term, we encourage the use of ‘incarceration,’ except in the specific case of Japanese Americans detained by the Army or DOJ. ‘Detention’ is used interchangeably—although some argue that the word denotes a shorter period of confinement than the nearly four years the camps were in operation.

*A smaller number of Nisei, mostly Kibei and mostly in Hawai`i, were also swept up in the DOJ internment system.

Japanese American vs “Japanese”

“Media outlets and other sources often refer to the more than 120,000* people of Japanese descent imprisoned by the U.S. government during WWII as simply ‘Japanese’—but this both erases their American identity and conflates Japanese Americans with Japanese citizens in Japan. The wartime government employed this strategy itself, inventing the orwellian term ‘non-alien’ to describe Japanese American citizens in public documents.

The Nisei (‘second generation’) were U.S. citizens born to Japanese immigrant parents in the United States. Many had never set foot in Japan. Their Issei parents were forbidden by discriminatory law from becoming naturalized American citizens, but by the 1940s most had lived in the United States for decades and raised their families here. Most had no plans of returning to Japan, and would have become naturalized citizens if allowed. By birth or by choice, Japanese Americans were just that—American.

*The oft-cited ‘120,000’ figure comes from the War Relocation Authority’s official statistical compilation, The Evacuated People, which cites a total of 120,313 people in the WRA system. However, including DOJ/Army internees and those who were held in ‘assembly centers’ but resettled before being transferred to WRA custody, that number is closer to 126,000.

Concentration camps vs “relocation centers”

“There is still some debate over the most appropriate terminology for the camps where Japanese Americans were confined during WWII. At first, Japanese Americans were held in temporary camps the government called ‘assembly centers’—facilities surrounded by fences and guarded by military police. This term is clearly euphemistic in nature, as the ‘assembly’ was carried out by military and political force. Therefore, we recommend its use only as part of a proper noun (e.g. ‘Puyallup Assembly Center’) or in quotation marks for specific references to this type of facility.

Japanese Americans were later transferred to longer-term camps which the government called ‘relocation centers.’ (Some officials, including the president, also referred to them as ‘concentration camps’ in internal memos.) Despite the seemingly innocuous name, these were prisons—compounds of barracks surrounded by barbed wire fences and patrolled by armed guards—which Japanese Americans could not leave without permission. ‘Relocation center’ fails to convey the harsh conditions and forced confinement of these facilities. As prison camps outside the normal criminal justice system, designed to confine civilians for military and political purposes on the basis of race and ethnicity, these sites also fit the definition of ‘concentration camps.’ As such, Densho’s preferred term is ‘concentration camp’ (e.g. ‘Minidoka concentration camp’). We do also use other terms, such as ‘incarceration camp’ or ‘prison camp,’ but urge the avoidance of euphemisms such as ‘relocation center’ and ‘internment camp.’

Our use of ‘concentration camp’ is intended to accurately describe what Japanese Americans were subjected to during WWII, and is not meant to undermine the experiences of Holocaust survivors or to conflate these two histories in any way. Like many Holocaust studies scholars, we believe that ‘concentration camp’ is a euphemism for the Nazi death camps where millions of innocent Jews and other political prisoners were killed. America’s concentration camps were very different from Nazi Germany’s, but they, and dozens more historical and contemporary examples, do have one thing in common: people in power removed a minority group from the general population and the rest of society let it happen.” 

RESEARCH

During my research phase, I reached out to many notable JA organizations and a large variety of members of the JA community. I was lucky enough to connect with Densho and have a Zoom meeting with Brian Niiya, their Content Director. 

Brian reminded me that the terminology issue sprang up in the 1970s during the early redress movement. Leaders of the movement wanted to eliminate the use of euphemistic words (i.e. relocation, evacuation) to describe their experience. According to Brian, the 1990s saw a push for moving away from “internment” and using “concentration camp” instead. 

I asked Brian about people, like myself, who aren’t comfortable with using the term “concentration camp,” and he informed me that although he believes it’s the best term to use, it’s ok if people don’t want to use it. I personally will only use “concentration camp” if I’m trying to make a strong and direct point, but otherwise I don’t like using it. I have also studied the Holocaust extensively and don’t like the comparisons it inevitably invites. Although “concentration camp” is a euphemism used for the death and extermination camps of the Nazis, the term has become synonymous with the Holocaust in contemporary times. Brian also mentioned that there are highly respected scholars who chose not to use that term, citing Alice Young Murray and Eric Muller as two examples. Neither of these scholars use “concentration camp” in their books.

I have tirelessly searched online for an “internment” definition similar to the alien-only definition provided by Densho. However, all the definitions I found basically say: the state of being confined as a prisoner, especially for political or military reasons. 

Many people I know who are interested in the terminology discussion looked up this definition and sent it back to me asking for an explanation. I myself did not have one so I put this forth to Brian and he was able to provide further insight into this: 

“The term ‘internment’ is misapplied. The camps that the Issei were kept in can properly be called internment camps but the War Relocation Authority camps that imprisoned American citizens cannot be properly applied.

Colloquially, people use internment interchangeably with incarceration. In general dictionaries, the definition will be non-specific. 

Part of the problem is there hasn’t been a replacement term for internment as this broad term. It’s not ideal to replace internment with these terms that are associated with penal institutions that imply guilt.”

Many thanks to Brian Niiya for discussing this important topic with me. 

SPEAKING TO MEMBERS OF THE JA COMMUNITY

My research also included a brief questionnaire on terminology and word choices. I sent a  six-question survey to a variety of people in the JA community. 

The variety in the responses received indicate that many divisions exist within the JA community itself over the preferred terminology used. I will sum up my findings through each question.

Question One

 Are you an active member of the Japanese American community? (i.e. politically, culturally, or some other way? I’d like you to tell me the ways that you’re involved in the community, whether it be big or small.) 

The answers here were diverse – a few people said no but most said yes, just in different ways. 

Some didn’t specify how they are active but said they are very active; some said they are culturally active; some are involved with their Buddhist church; some are involved with the Japanese American National Museum (JANM) and some with the Japanese American Citizens League (JACL); some are involved with a variety of JA organizations.

Question Two

What words have you used throughout your life to refer to the JA wartime experience?

The majority of people here actually said “internment” or “internment camp.” A few mentioned “concentration camp” as well. Someone said: “I’ve transitioned from using the terms ‘intern/internment/internee’ to ‘incarcerate/incarceration/incarceree’. In addition to ‘incarceration camps’, I refer to them as ‘prison camps’.” Another person provided a long list of the words they’ve used: “Internment camp, incarcerated, forcibly removed, Department of Justice camps, relocation camp, propaganda, wartime hysteria, racism, fear”.

Question Three

Have you heard about the recent changes in terminology surrounding the JA wartime experience – i.e. the move away from “internment” to “incarceration,” the more prominent use of “concentration camps,” and the move away from using “relocation camps”?

Half of the people said no and half of the people said yes. It was split fairly even down the middle. One person mentioned that they think there needs to be more education around the use of the word “concentration camp” because of its association with the Nazi death camps. Another person shared their own personal experience: “My understanding was that there were two different camps. One for suspected criminals – concentration camps, and one for innocent families – relocation camps. I didn’t hear the term internment camps until I was older – high school or college. Incarceration is used today to describe jailed criminals. It would be offensive to me if someone suggested that my mother was incarcerated.” One individual pointed out that this is, in fact, not a recent change: “Yes, but the changes are not recent. There were JA community discussions about the euphemisms embedded in terminology like ‘relocation and internment’ during the 1960’s. The sentiment in the Japanese American community was that their experience being forcibly removed from their homes and incarcerated in camps out in the middle of no-where was extremely unjust, and efforts began immediately after the end of WWII to correct the narrative and address the injustice.”

Question Four

What words are you comfortable with using now?

I was surprised that the majority of the answers here were “internment camp.” A few people said “concentration camp” and one person made a very good point: “I guess it depends on context. If among JAs or Asian Americans I feel ok saying concentration camp or incarceration. But I feel less comfortable using those terms in settings where people are not aware of or ignorant about WWII experiences.”

I believe that I should also note that my grandma, a survivor of the camp, referred to them as “relocation camps” in her memoirs.

Question Five

What are your thoughts on the changing terminology and the acknowledgement of words like “internment” and “relocation” being euphemisms and the move away from using them?

I believe that the answers to this question are all worth noting:

Concentration camps are synonymous with the Nazi genocide of Jews and that’s not what happened with JA. They were however wrongly and forcibly removed from their homes, lost possession[s] and property that their family worked hard for because of a foreign attack from a non white nation. No one set up “internment camps” during the Cold War for any Eastern Europeans. Why?

I think these are too “soft” for what the reality of the situation was. People were forced to leave their lives and these terms make it sound like it was more of a choice. I am happy that people are thinking more about leaving these terms behind. This is something my family has talked about for a long time, but when seeing the amount of education that is common on this subject (very little education for the average student), it needs to be addressed as a negative part of US History.

I am for using terms that are not euphemisms.

I personally don’t feel comfortable referring to Japanese internment as “concentration camps.”

JA people, even Nisei who had citizenships were denied their legal rights and sent to concentration camps. They lost their assets and also their pride.

Accompanied by education, I think whatever words that come closer to the truth of the experience are a move in the right direction.

While I believe the “internment” of JA was unjust and disgraceful, I don’t feel the need to change the terminology that is already established. Currently our society is experiencing many issues of racism. So I can understand why some individuals may want to use different words.

Internment camp is a term that is specific to the Japanese American experience during WWII. I do not consider “internment” to be a euphemism. I think it would be inappropriate to use the term concentration camp. Was the Minidoka experience so similar to the Auschwitz experience? Then let us not equate them by using the same words to label them.

I learned about the incarceration experience at JANM and so that vocabulary was what I used first. I may be biased in that way because I was first exposed and did the deep dive at JANM because of my job, and so those terms were my first vocabulary and seem most correct to me. In other Non-JA settings, admittedly it is a little awkward sometimes to use the stronger terms, but as I reflect on it, it seems like the right terminology rather than euphemistic language.

This is 2021- times change and terminology has changed.

I don’t think the word “internment” is a euphemism, and I grew up using that word. Using this word doesn’t lessen the unjust and horrible conditions I know the JAs experienced there.

I’m all for changing = correcting the terminology because the old euphemisms were a cover-up for the injustice inflicted on Japanese Americans, 2/3rd of whom were American citizens. There were political and economic forces (e.g. successful Japanese American farmers that were highly resented by white farmers) that had nothing to do with Japan bombing Pearl Harbor.

Again, Densho has been an invaluable resource. Their whole mission is to rightly preserve and tell the story of the Japanese American World War II experience. https://densho.org/core-story/

It really hasn’t been explained to me why internment is unacceptable. I can see why relocation camp should not be used.

Question Six

Have you felt like you’ve experienced any forms of discrimination because of your heritage and the history of Japan in WWII?

I was also surprised with the answers here because the majority of people answered no. A few people have experienced racism throughout their lives, but it’s mainly been smaller aggressions and smatterings of racist behavior.

I, however, have had the misfortune of experiencing discrimination because of my heritage and the history of Japan from WWII. My first boyfriend turned out to be a racist.

Since I am mixed-race, I am typically seen as “Asian” by white people and “white/Western/foreign” by Asian people. 

My ex was a white man in the US Navy from a rich, privileged background. 

He was extremely racist and sexist to me. 

He would have me drive to pick him up from the naval base, but then wouldn’t let me drive back because I was “a bad driver since I was an Asian female.”

He would swat at me at times and say “bad Asian!” like he was disciplining a dog. 

But perhaps one of the worst things he did to me was his repeated (and I say REPEATED) verbal assaults. He would get in my face and scream “YOU BOMBED PEARL HARBOR! YOU BOMBED PEARL HARBOR!” He would even get his Navy friends to join in. They would all surround me, screaming this at me. 

And this ex knew that my grandma was in the Japanese American prison camps.

He was my first boyfriend, and I was young, so I struggled to find my voice and stand up to him. I gained that ability after we broke up. I became a huge feminist and big advocate of the JA wartime experience. Although, I do not like to credit an ignorant white man for my growth into the strong feminist I am today. But I guess what doesn’t kill us, makes us stronger. 

That was some of the worst discrimination I’ve faced as a Japanese American. Of course there’s been multiple instances of the classic ignorance people show towards anyone Asian – but this was the worst. 

A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE FROM A CAMP SURVIVOR

My great aunt Chidori Reynolds (née Ogawa) was the only one from her family forced into a  camp. The Ogawas, my other Japanese family, were from Hawai’i, but Chidori had the misfortune of living on the mainland during the war. When she was released, she became the first Nisei woman from Hawai’i to enlist in the military. I was able to track down some primary source newspapers covering her work in the WACs and found a quote by her that, at the least, is very interesting, and, at the most, can be considered quite inflammatory: “Speaking of her experiences in the relocation camps, Private Ogawa said that although she was glad when she was released, she didn’t mind it because she knew it was an emergency measure and the only way to handle the problem presented by the Japanese living on the mainland with the speed that was necessary.”* I was shocked when I read that but I think it goes to show that this topic is much more nuanced than I previously believed.

*This quote is from the Wednesday June 7, 1944 edition of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin.

COMMENTS FROM THE JEWISH COMMUNITY

All the Jewish community members I spoke with, except for one, seemed to have no problem with the JA community using the term “concentration camp.”  A few of them mentioned that there are people they know and other members of the Jewish community who would be upset by it. 

I think it is accurate to say that questions like these will never evoke a singular, united response from any persecuted groups of people. Everyone will have a different answer; people will always disagree within communities themselves. I do not speak for the Japanese American community as a whole, just like how none of the individuals I spoke to represent their entire community either. It is important to speak to a diverse group of people to try and gauge an accurate representation of people’s thoughts and opinions.

One person made a point of describing how important language and terminology are to them, while another made the opposite point: “the words used should not be the concern. As long as language calls attention to the inhumane treatment, that’s what we should focus on: the inhumane treatment and how to stop it.”

Some more notable responses:

“Honestly, you are right, concentration camps are a euphemism for camps to hold ‘political prisoners’ but obviously this was not the case. I use concentration camp, but I also use the words labor and death camps, obviously most of the camps were death camps, but in WW2, there were camps that were ‘labor’ camps too. Maybe these would be more fitting terms. Maybe in your article you can refer to this terminology and how internment is not appropriate, these were labor camps that took ‘political prisoners’ away from their families and homes simply because of their race, ethnicity, or religion. That’s not internment, that’s not political prisoners, that’s not protection, it’s a discriminatory act that enables others to think it’s ok to be racist and discriminatory as well. This is why we STILL have a problem with racism in the US because our government has never protected us but singled us out as enemies rather than uniting and embracing our diversity as a country. This is why we are divided as a country.

As a teacher and a Jew, whatever the terminology, the concept is the main focus. What Japanese Americans went through in those camps can never be erased, that’s on the US to admit they made a BIG mistake and to educate the future generation about what REALLY happened in the camps so that it will never happen again.”

“For me, personally, the phrase ‘concentration camps’ is emotionally charged and connotes systemic genocide. While the US treatment of the Japanese Americans was horrific, it did not include gas chambers, death ovens, bizarre medical experiments and all sorts of things that were meant to destroy a group of people.”

“In general the Jews were slaughtered in the concentration camps and the Japanese Americans were not killed (for the most part) in the internment camps. But, after doing some reading on this subject and some thinking about the definitions, I think the connotation of a concentration camp as a death camp is not the same as its actual definition. And, given that an internment camp is a type of concentration camp, as a Jew, I am not offended by [the] use of the term concentration camp to refer to the camps in which Japanese were imprisoned in the Western U.S. during WWII. In fact, if the use of this term helps to bring awareness of the brutality of these camps and of the horrible nature of the Executive Order 9066, then I think it should be used by all means.  Perhaps the answer is start referring to the Nazi concentration camps as death or elimination camps. But they’re all concentration camps.”

“First, I think that if we truly believe in ‘never again’ when it comes to the Holocaust, we have to remember that the Holocaust didn’t only target Jewish people. 

And we have to remember that while the killing of prisoners in Nazi camps was the ultimate evil, the imprisonment of them is itself a huge evil. (Just as the forced removal of Native Americans to reservations was itself a great evil, even had it been completely peaceful.)

I also think it’s important not to see the Holocaust as an exceptional evil, one that cannot be compared to others. It’s important to see a continuity among the Holocaust and the Japanese internment camps and the Middle Passage/chattel slavery. 

This doesn’t mean we should elide the differences across these historical incidents either. But it’s fruitful to consider the overlap between, say, the European antisemitic discourse of Jewish split loyalties and the similar charges leveled at Japanese Americans during WWII, just as we see similar discourses in anti-immigration discourses when it comes to demands for total assimilation.

It’s deeply annoying when everything we don’t like is called ‘fascist’ and anyone to the right of us is a ‘Nazi,’ but that’s not what I see happening [when] people refer to the internment camps as concentration camps. That said, I can also respect the desire to reserve that term for the Nazi death camps out of a desire, I imagine, to make ‘concentration camp’ and ‘death camp’ synonymous terms and to respect the historical specificity of the Holocaust.”

MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES AND OPINIONS

One thing I’ve recently learned is the nuance surrounding the whole Japanese American experience during WWII. Back in 2013-2014 when I was researching and writing my senior thesis, the information presented about the camps was more “uniform” and generalized.

The Japanese Americans were generally all presented as well-behaved, well-mannered. They described their experience as “sho ga nai”/”shikata ga nai” (“it is what it is”/”it can’t be helped”), the model minority stereotype that America loved to force upon us. While part of that is true, that attitude is very Japanese. My family themselves didn’t complain about the camps but they did discuss them and help educate us.

I recently read the book “No-No Boy” by John Okada. It’s about the aftermath of the incarceration and the boys who refused to put their signatures on documents at the camps that signed them up for the draft and pledged allegiance to the U.S, the same country that had incarcerated them in camps. They were imprisoned and spent the rest of the war in jail. In addition, the Japanese American community ostracized them after they returned home. 

I’ve also recently learned about the cold-blooded murder of a man out walking his dog in one of the camps. My resources from before said that there were no unnatural deaths in the camps or violence imposed upon the Japanese. This is now proving to be untrue. 

All this is to say that the history, as well as the terminology, surrounding the camps is changing as we uncover more things and evolve as a society.

I have been using the words “internment camp” for all of my life up until a few months ago. I was surprised to see the response I received and was opened up to a brand new terminological discourse. I believed I was quite the expert on the camps and the JA wartime experience, but this goes to show that I still have a lot more to learn. 

When I see the words “internment camp” now, I cringe. I feel uncomfortable because it looks wrong to me. However, when I see the words “concentration camp” being used, I feel uncomfortable as well. This term still holds a large tie to the Holocaust for me, which is a topic that I’ve also spent a lot of my life studying as well. I’m currently at a loss of what to call them. To people who know me and other Japanese Americans, I just refer to them as “the camps.” I’ll need to spend more time trying to figure out what I myself am personally comfortable with. I am still very much on this terminological journey.

NEXT STEPS

I believe the next step to take is simple: education. Spread the word! Tell your friends, your colleagues, your family, your classmates, your enemies, people on Facebook, strangers on the street, anyone. I can confidently say that I myself have managed to bring more awareness around this topic through both my pursuit of research and through mentioning it in conversations I have, both online and in person. Most people tend to live in a bubble and so many people outside of the JA community have either never heard of the camps or only heard about them once they were older. Funnily enough, when I lived in Paris and had to explain (all in French, bien sûr) why I can’t speak Japanese to the many many French people who asked what I am (my fellow mixed race people – how sick are you of hearing “what are you?”), I was given the chance to educate them about the JA wartime experience. Et voilà, I was even able to educate the people of Paris about the camps.

Discover Nikkei, a project of the Japanese American National Museum, is a community website about Nikkei identity, history, and experiences. They were kind enough to send me some important articles surrounding the topic of terminology:

WORDS CAN LIE OR CLARIFY: Terminology of the World War II Incarceration of Japanese Americans* 

By Aiko Herzig-Yoshinaga

Words Do Matter: A Note on Inappropriate Terminology and the Incarceration of the Japanese Americans 

By Roger Daniels

JANM’s former curator also talked about this…

“Concentration Camp” or “Relocation Center” – What’s in a Name?

By James A. Hirabayashi 

Also, in 2019, their curator, Karen Ishizuka, talked about this matter. 

CONCLUSION

Unfortunately, we all know that history repeats itself. That’s the premise of this history blog. We continue to see horrifying instances of racism, prejudice, and imprisonment today. Migrants fleeing their violent homes just to find themselves imprisoned in camps at the US border; the alleged treatment of Uighurs in China; the ethnic cleansing of the Palestinians; the indigenous residential schools in Canada; the police murdering Black Americans; and the violent plague of Anti-Asian hate, to name a few. The pages of history are bloodied by the constant cyclical nature of violence and discrimination. Is it human nature? Perhaps it is. But perhaps we also have the capacity to be better. We as humans are able to love as blindly as we hate, sometimes even confusing and conflating the two. But we can be better. It is our responsibility as human beings to acknowledge the humanity in our neighbors, regardless of our outward differences. We all share one thing: the gift of human life. We can’t throw that away.

In closing, I’d like to invite you, the reader, to continue learning about the terminology surrounding the JA experience, to spread the knowledge, and to please be kind on the internet to people who aren’t aware of this change in terminology yet. Thank you.

Japonisme in Fashion x Cyclicity

Note: I originally wrote this for my company’s blog, ChuMedia Hub.

In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry and his famous black ships arrived in Japan and kicked off the beginning of Western trade. Although Japan was forcefully reopened to the West after having been closed for over 200 years, there is some debate as to whether or not this was ultimately a good thing for Japan. But in this article, we are merely tracing the consequences of its opening and the creation of “Japonisme” in the West.

The French term “Japonisme” emerged to describe the powerful fascination with Japanese art and design that occurred in the West during the late 19th century. Japan was reintroduced to the world, and the world was loving it. The term also refers to the works created by Western artists and designers who were inspired by Japan. While the phenomenon is present in a range of art movements, it is most closely associated with Impressionism, as the Impressionists were influenced by the subject matter, composition, and perspective of Japanese ukiyo-e prints.

Image via artelino

Claude Monet was particularly inspired by Japonisme and had amassed quite the large collection of ukiyo-e prints during his lifetime. I’ve had the privilege to visit his home in Giverny and saw his impressive collection hanging up on the walls of his old home. 

In tune with the popular theme of Japonisme, Monet painted a striking portrait of his first wife Camille in Japanese costume. Camille is wearing a padded and heavily decorated red kimono, standing on a tatami-inspired mat, in front of a wall decorated by Japanese fans. Being a natural brunette, she is shown wearing a blonde wig—perhaps to emphasize the contrast of her as a European woman over the Japanese environment she’s been placed in. The painting evokes a kind of performative appropriation of Japanese culture, rather than an authentic Japanese climate.

La Japonaise by Claude Monet, 1876

One of my favorite painters, Vincent Van Gogh, was also influenced by, and collected, Japanese ukiyo-e prints. In 1887 he produced the work “The Courtesan (after Eisen)”, which was based on the woodcut print of the artist Kesai Eisen. The image had been reproduced on the cover of Paris illustré in 1886. Van Gogh enlarged the figure and used bright colors and bold outlines, in imitation of the ukiyo-e woodcut style. 

The Courtesan (after Eisen) by Vincent Van Gogh, 1887

During the seclusion of the Edo period, the Japanese maintained a strict trade policy with the Dutch through the Dutch East India Company in Nagasaki. In the late sixteenth century, the director of the company and his companions received a “shogun’s gown” as a gift from the shogun. The robe was padded with silk wadding, generous in cut, made of exquisite materials, and very comfortable to wear. The Dutch took these home to Holland, where they became prized as “Japonse rok” (Japanese dressing gowns). They became very popular, appearing in portraits of the time and were even manufactured in other countries.

Image via Huis Van Gjin

Even with the Japonse rok and the opening of Western trade, it was the advent of international expositions in the mid-nineteenth century that thrust Japan into the spotlight. Many Europeans and Americans first saw Japanese artwork and design at the 1862 International Exhibition in London, 1867 in Paris, and 1876 in Philadelphia. Shops selling Japanese wares sprung up in Paris and London during the 1860s and became gathering places for artists and art dealers. Artists began incorporating these “exotic objects” in their paintings, with kimono making its way to the forefront of popularity.

In 1867, the year of the exposition universelle in Paris, Japonisme made its debut in fashion magazines. The October edition of the Journal des demoiselles contained an illustration of clothes labelled “Japanese style”. The June 1 issue of Petit Courrier des dames mentioned “dresses of Japanese silk” purchased by Empress Eugénie, which may have been Japanese kimono. Dresses fashioned from pieces of kimono or made of kimono material began appearing in England and France in the 1860s and 1870s.

Chinese and Japanese Exhibits at 1867 World’s Fair in Paris

Japanese Satsuma Pavilion at the French expo 1867

The most popular item of dress exported to the West was a modified version of the kimono worn as a dressing gown. Kimono had graduated from an exotic Japanese object to a fashionable at-home dress. Western women saw liberation and ease, as well as exoticism, in kimono garments, which consequently saw them adopting them as dressing gowns. Beginning in the 1880s, women’s magazines like Harper’s Bazaar were promoting “Japanese matinees” and dressing gowns of Japanese silk from Liberty and Company of London. It was only until the turn of the century when the word “kimono” came into use.

La parisienne japonaise by Alfred Stevens, 1872

A large contributing factor to the late nineteenth century’s momentum of the kimono was the performing arts. Opera and theater were popular in France, with Japan being quite a popular theme for the stage. In 1885, the Mikado, a performance in which Japanese dress plays a significant role, premiered in London. Through this medium, the knowledge of Japanese kimono gradually spread.

Mikado by Raphael Kirchner, 1900

In 1900, Sada Yacco, the famous Japanese actress, performed in Paris and bewitched the city. Paris was entranced with both her beauty and her skill in wearing kimono, a skill that came naturally to her because of her previous life as a former geisha. She became a sensation and inspiration to many people of influence in the arts—Picasso even sketched her!

Sada Yacco by Pablo Picasso, 1901

Sada Yacco became the star of Paris—the boutique Au Mikado began selling “Kimono Sada Yacco”, and in 1903, every issue of Femina contained an advertisement for them. From around 1905, Le Figaro-Madame often carried advertisements from the House of Babani for “robes japonaises”, Japanese-style garments or dressing gowns. These items were considered the newest addition to an upper-class lady’s peignoir selection and the House of Babani became very successful by selling them.

In 1907, Sada Yacco visited Paris for a second time, and consequently influenced and expanded the role of kimono in the Paris fashion world even further. Her return prompted the emergence of nukiemon (the revealing of the nape of the neck). It soon became the fashionable way to wear kimono. In Paris, kimono were worn as unbelted, sweeping outer robes, similar to the ones seen in ukiyo-e prints. The mikaeri bijin pose (a beautiful woman looking back over her shoulder) became a popular motif found in the pages of fashion magazines.

Beauty Looking Back by Hishikawa Moronobu, 17th century

Charles Frederick Worth, an English couturier and fashion designer, was one of the influential forces in fashion drawn to Japonisme. Beginning in the late 1880s, he started incorporating various elements into his creations through a painterly approach to pattern design, embroidered Japanese motifs, and asymmetrical placement of these motifs. Before Worth, the father of haute couture, asymmetry was rarely found in Western clothes. However, Worth’s fabulous asymmetrical dress changed that.

Beginning in 1890, the Japanese motifs typically favored by the West were chrysanthemums, flowing water, flowers, birds, waves, and various grasses. Chrysanthemums were especially popular, and until the 1920s, they appeared over and over in fashion as a symbol of Japan. Similar, perhaps, to Hokusai’s “Great Wave” iconography, which developed into an emblem of Japan in contemporary times.

Opera Cape by House of Worth, 1899

Ball gown by House of Worth, 1889

Side view of ball gown

Evening dress by House of Worth, 1889

Coat by House of Worth, 1898

Evening dress by House of Worth, 1898-1900

Up until the appearance of Paul Poiret on the Paris fashion scene, Japonisme in fashion was limited to Japanese-style motifs and silk weaving techniques, while the clothes themselves remained Western in shape and form. In 1903, Poiret began to create clothes inspired by the cut, look, and drapery-like quality of a kimono. This inspired a new concept of clothing that emphasized the shoulders, not the waist, and incorporated loosely-cut sleeves and crossed bodices into evening dresses. Evening coats began to swathe the body like comfy cocoons, with their loose-fitting silhouettes and straight cuts. Say goodbye to the corset! Goodbye, corset.

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Embed from Getty Images

Madeleine Vionnet, a French fashion designer and couturier, is remembered for liberating  women’s bodies through her clothes (alongside Coco Chanel). Vive la libération! She was inspired by the straight form of Japanese kimono and began creating dresses that were focused on a kimono’s structure in the late 1910s. She abandoned the traditional practice of tailoring body-fitted pieces from numerous and complex pattern pieces and embarked upon a more minimalist approach. She minimized the cutting of fabric and relied on surface ornamentation by manipulating the fabric itself. Vionnet created clothes that flowed over the body from pieces cut along straight lines. She is known for pioneering the idea of the bias cut, which was partly based on the rectangular cut of the kimono. Bias cut fabric stretches as it hangs and clings to the body, draping beautifully, and creating an ethereal rippling effect as the wearer moves.

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Embed from Getty Images

Because pioneering designers like Poiret and Vionnet incorporated the straight cut construction of the kimono into their designs, 1920s fashion was increasingly marked by the popular cylindrical dresses we are familiar with today. These silhouettes have come to define this decade for us through film, television, and other costume-related media. Ideas of volume and three-dimensionality were brought to the forefront of dressmaking, as a freer range of form became all the rage. I was surprised myself to find this connection between the iconic kimono and the iconic “flapper” dresses of the 1920s. Another surprising connection is the scale pattern, or seigaiha (blue ocean waves), pattern that was widely used as a popular motif of the Art Deco school. 

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The influence of Japonisme and other “exotic” cultures began to wane in the late 1930s. American and European designers began to create modern versions of historical Western dress that dominated the fashion scene through the 1950s. The revival of familiar historical styles offered up an escape from the stress of the Great Depression and the impending sense of doom with the growing power of nationalism in Europe. Japonisme was abandoned.

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Embed from Getty Images

Today, although Japonisme has retired from its previous larger-than-life presence, the influence of Japanese design and aesthetics continues on in the fashion industry. Fashion greats like Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzo Takada, and Hanae Mori still define the fashion landscape today. Whether it be Kawakubo’s consistent defiance of dress stereotypes, or Miyake’s famous pleats collection, it is certain that Japan has more than made its mark on the fashion world. Why else would Kim Kardashian have tried (and failed) to trademark the word “kimono” for herself?

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Embed from Getty Images

Embed from Getty Images

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Embed from Getty Images

Sources: “Japonisme”; “Japonism in Fashion”; Brooklyn Museum “Japonism in Fashion”; “How the Kimono has influenced the World of Fashion”; “Japonism’s Influence in Fashion & Art”; Google Arts & Culture “Japonism in Fashion”; “Japonisme”; “Japonism: A Rich History of Artistic Inspiration”; “How Japanese Art Influenced and Inspired European Impressionist Artists”; “7 Things you Need to Know about Japonisme”

Japanese Beauty Standards x Cyclicity

Note: I originally wrote this for my company’s blog, ChuMedia Hub.

What comes to mind when you first think of Japanese beauty? A classic image of a woman with black hair, white skin, and red lips? The traditional color palette—black, white, and red. 

The Japanese have an old saying, “a fair complexion hides seven flaws,” which has remained relevant throughout their history, all the way up to today. The same beauty standards from the past find themselves still relevant today, but with a contemporary twist. Whitening products line beauty stores in Japan, with the promise of lightening and whitening one’s skin. I’ve noticed that big global brands like Chanel tote whitening products for their Asian market as well. When I went to purchase more perfume at a Chanel boutique, I was gifted samples from their whitening product line. I ended up giving them to a Japanese friend of mine. I have sensitive skin and I’m not sure how my skin would react to products like that. I also don’t care about having white skin; my skin is already pretty white.

While many traditional Japanese beauty standards have withstood the test of time, there are also those that didn’t. Let’s take a look.

White Skin

White skin is a Japanese beauty standard that has remained prevalent throughout most of Japan’s history and continues to dominate the landscape today. During the Nara period (710-794), women would apply a white powder to their face called oshiroi, which continued into the Heian period (794-1185) as a symbol of beauty. However, only noble Heian women had access to cosmetics, so anyone who was not an aristocrat was excluded from this practice and status symbol. References to the striking beauty of white skin can be found in the diary of Lady Murasaki and the Tale of Genji.

During the Edo period (1603-1868), the culture of white skin was extended to commoners, but an emphasis was put on a more natural look. A beauty manual titled “Miyako fūzoku kewaiden” (A Handbook of Cosmetics in the Capital) was published in 1813 and remained the go-to reference item on beauty through the next century. This handbook contained a range of skincare techniques for making the skin beautiful and white. These techniques ranged from facial cleansing, herbal treatments for acne, facial packs made from lead oxide, rice bran as a facial exfoliant, and even the use of collagen as a facial pack. 

The natural look that women in the Edo period tried to achieve was more of a polished and translucent white skin tone. Every day, a great deal of time was spent on applying makeup and cosmetics that accentuated the natural beauty of the skin. The handbook described how oshiroi should be repeatedly applied and removed by rubbing the cheeks with a towel to make the skin resemble porcelain. Some women would even apply white powder to their ears and neck as well, intentionally leaving some areas untouched to create a contrast between the white makeup and naked, natural skin.

Wearing makeup was considered good etiquette and women were expected to be made up from the early morning until late at night, including bath time. Applying makeup was considered a private act, not to be seen by others. This may be the reason why it is rare to see Japanese women putting on makeup in public, contrary to their Western counterparts.

As Westernization hit Japan via the Meiji era (1868-1912) and the country was thrust into the modern world, heavily powdered white faces fell out of fashion. Western cultural influences were introduced and swept the nation clean. However, kabuki performers and geisha still wear this traditional white makeup today, so it has not gone extinct.

Image by Nicole Ene via Pixabay

Blackened Teeth

Ohaguro, the traditional blackening of the teeth, can be traced as far back as the Kofun period (300-538). However, it was the Heian period that saw it become more widespread amongst the aristocracy and introduced as a coming of age ritual among girls and boys. During the Edo period, ohaguro became common practice amongst married women, unmarried women over 18, geisha, and courtesans. In order to blacken the teeth, a dye made out of iron filings, vinegar, and plant tannins was applied to the teeth almost every day.

But why did women dye their teeth black? It may seem strange hearing about this today, but back then it was thought to complement the white makeup women wore. Simultaneously, it acted as a way to conceal bad and yellow teeth, especially since a white face inevitably made the teeth appear yellower. Ohaguro was actually good for the teeth as well—the mixture helped to protect against cavities, tooth decay, and other dental conditions.

Black was also an important color in the Japanese expression of beauty and elegance. It was associated with a Japanese woman’s distinctive black hair and stained black teeth. Teeth that were black as night was a popular beauty ideal until the 19th century. In 1870, the practice of blackened teeth was banned among the nobility, but continued to be followed by other non-noble social classes until the early Shōwa period. 

Many Westerners who visited Japan saw ohaguro as a repugnant Japanese custom that disfigured women by making them intentionally unattractive. It didn’t follow the standard Western beauty practices, so of course they didn’t understand.

Image via The Irish News

Floor-Length Hair

Hair was the most important feature of a woman’s physical beauty during the Heian period. As long as it was long and glossy, she was considered beautiful. The longer the hair, the more beautiful the woman. This period saw Japanese beauty standards break free from the influence of China to create a more distinct aesthetic of their own. This included floor-length hair, white powdered faces, and the blackening of teeth. It is believed that this long, flowing hair trend was a form of rebellion against the shorter hairstyles and buns that were popular in China at that time. 

The noble women of the court would have their hair parted down the center, falling straight down their back; barely any styling technique was used. Aside from keeping hair long, it was just as important to take good care of it. Rice water, camellia oil, and sanekazura extract were used to keep hair glossy. Washing and combing the hair was an all-day affair that required the attention of many servants. The longest hair ever recorded was around seven meters. No wonder so many attendants were needed!

Image via Life in Heian Japan and Medieval Europe

Shaved Eyebrows

Shaved eyebrows was another Japanese beauty standard that was practiced throughout history. Starting in the Nara period and ending in the Edo period, women would engage in hikimayu—a makeup practice that involved removing one’s natural eyebrows and then painting them back on. This practice was closely associated with oshiroi because removing natural eyebrows made it easier to apply the white powder.

In the Nara period, women would paint the brows in arc shapes. In the Heian period, eyebrows were painted high up on the forehead as ovals or smudges. Because of the sleek and long hairstyle of that period, the forehead appeared too prominent. Thus, the eyebrows were repainted higher up on the forehead to help balance out the face.

During the Edo period, hikimayu was only done by married women after the birth of their first child. They would then either repaint the brows at the original location or leave them bare. With the aggressive entrance of Western influence thrust upon Japan during the Meiji era, hikimayu began to die out. It can be seen today most commonly through the Heian-style masks used in Noh theater.

Nara period eyebrows

Image via grape

Heian period eyebrows

Caption: Noh Mask of a Young Woman by Ogura Sōei. 

Image via artsmia.org

Red Rosebud Lips

Everybody loves a red lip, and the Japanese are no exception. However, it was small lips that were traditionally considered a standard of beauty. Japanese women would apply beni to their lips, a red color pigment made from safflower, and paint inside their lip line to make their pucker look like a bright red flower bud. 

During the Edo period, a new trend was taking shape amongst the ladies of Osaka, Kyoto, and Edo. Women were dressing up to go out to kabuki performances, nature-viewing parties, or other events, and began wearing the clothes of kabuki actors and beautiful courtesans. Flowery, eye-catching styles became fashionable. Rouge and red lipstick were used to accent ears, lips, and the outer corners of the eyes. Red, white, and black were the only colors used in makeup during that time and can still be seen today in the faces of geisha and kabuki actors. Yet, the Meiji era again saw the disappearance of the red rosebud lip trend and introduced a full palette of makeup hues to the vanities of Japanese women.

Today, the best models for the small rosebud lips of the past are geisha.

Image via Peter Brown’s Australian & Asian Palaeoanthropology

Western Influences and 20th Century Practices

The beginning of the 20th century saw an emergence of quick application and convenient makeup practices. This was in direct correlation with the advancement of women in both society and the workplace. Foundation, face powder, and lipsticks were being sold in a wider variety of hues, while emulsions and skincare products started appearing on the market as the Western industry’s influence began to permeate the Japanese market. The end of World War II especially saw a heavy influence on Japanese aesthetics with the influx of the American mass media market.

The postwar period and the 1960s saw Western styles of makeup gaining popularity—eye shadow, oil-based foundations, mascara, false eyelashes, and other products began lining Japan’s shop shelves. The spread of color televisions in the 1960s were a surprising influence on this trend—the films shown at movie houses usually had a pinkish overtone, which saw a growth in popularity of pink makeup. 

The 1970s and 1980s, however, marked a move away from Western culture as more women began proudly embracing their identity as Japanese. Yamaguchi Sayoko, a Japanese model who was the first Asian model to grace the Parisian runways, served as an inspiration of Japanese beauty as an international icon. While her black straight hair and almond-shaped eyes inspired a kind of orientalism in the West, it also helped inspire young women back home. During the 1960s, almost 50% of models used in Japanese advertising were non-Asian—even Shiseido used exclusively half-Japanese models until 1973, when they signed Yamaguchi. With her exploding popularity in the fashion and beauty world, Yamaguchi helped to build a new appreciation of modern Japanese beauty.

Image via Wooly

Contemporary Practices

Although the heavy face powder look of Japan’s previous eras has passed, beautiful white skin is still a crucial beauty standard today. A great importance is placed on skincare and whitening products, while the leading cosmetology advancements in scar tissue reduction techniques can be directly linked to the classic Japanese ideal of unblemished skin.

Japan is now one of the worldwide market leaders for beauty products and cosmetics. Japanese products are highly coveted by individuals all over the world, as seen by the sweeping J-beauty trend. Sheet masks, serums, and skincare galore! People are rushing for the chance to unlock the secrets to achieving beautiful Japanese skin.

Image via Honeycombers

Sources: “Cultural History of Cosmetics”; “Ancient Japanese Beauty Standards You Probably Didn’t Know”; “The Fair Face of Japanese Beauty”; “Red Lips, White Face: The Cultural History of Japanese Beauty”; “A Japanese Beauty Tip Book Published 200 Years Ago”; “The Japanese Model Who Transformed Fashion’s Beauty Norms”.