Influential Women: Sada Yacco x Cyclicity

On the advent of the twentieth century, an exquisitely talented Japanese geisha arrived in the U.S. and took the West by storm. Traveling on to Europe, she was destined to leave her mark on each city and every heart fortunate enough to be graced by her presence. Japan, and its enchanting representative, had arrived.

Sada Yacco by Alfredo Müller, 1899-1900

Sadayakko Kawakami (commonly known as Sada Yacco) was born on July 18, 1871, the youngest of 12 children. At the early age of four, she was sent to work in the Hamada geisha house, located in the Yoshicho district of Tokyo. Three years later, her father died and the proprietress of the Hamada house adopted Sada as her heir.

She debuted at the age of 12 as an o-shaku (an apprentice geisha), and received her first geisha name. She was given the name Ko-yakko, or Little Yakko. She was sent to a Shinto priest to learn how to read and write, which was revolutionary at the time because women’s education was only just beginning. She took secret lessons in judo and learned how to ride horses and play billiards.

In 1886, her mizuage was sold to Prime Minister Ito Hirobumi at the age of 15. Her coming-of-age ceremony gave her the name Yakko, and the prestige of her patron increased her popularity at teahouses. He remained her patron, and she his mistress, for three years.

She discovered a passion for acting through the entertainment world of the geisha. Geisha performed music and dance of the same genre as kabuki, including dance solos from kabuki plays—but only for private and exclusive customers. Yakko much preferred the exciting male roles in these performances, with their dramatic posing and fight scenes, over the coy women’s parts.

Yakko married an actor named Otojiro Kawakami in October 1893. She had met him during a private performance by his troupe for the prime minister and a select few geisha. His flamboyant and powerful personality attracted her to him instantly. Their shared love for the stage could also have played an important factor in their mutual attraction.

In 1899, at the turn of the century, they set out with a theater troupe for San Francisco, where Yakko was promoted as the starlet of the troupe. She was given the stage name “Sadayakko” and debuted on May 25th. Her dance was bewitching and so skillful that she ignited a storm of applause. 

Sada Yakko circa 1910s

Her dance wowed audiences immediately and her debut was a great success. She became an icon—the entrancing Yakko, the most celebrated geisha in Japan and a woman who bewitched Westerners without the ability to speak a word of their language.

Their first tour was across the United States from June 1899 to April 1900. It crossed the Atlantic and continued on to Europe from May 1900 to November 1901. They departed for their second tour in April 1901 and toured around Europe until July 1902.

Once arriving in America, Sada Yakko and her troupe quickly found success. After winning the respect and recognition of superstar Isadora Duncan, another celebrity, American Loïe Fuller elevated her status even further. Thanks to him, the doors of the theatre in Paris were opened to her, and he even acted as an interpreter in her interviews with foreign magazines. In 1900, Sada Yakko performed The Geisha and the Knight in Paris as part of the Exposition Universelle and became an overnight success. It was the first time that a Japanese theatre troupe had appeared in France, and they were so triumphant that Sada Yakko was even invited to host a garden party at the Élysée Palace—the official residence of the French president. 

Sada Yakko as Musume Dojoji, 1907

Her success continued the entire time she was abroad. Pablo Picasso sketched her; Debussy was inspired by her when composing music. Her arrival in Paris coincided with the Japonisme movement, which she contributed to as an idol and muse for French creatives. Guerlain created a perfume in her honor named “Yacco.”

Sketch of Sada Yakko by Picasso

An interest in kimono accompanied the sweeping wave of Japonisme, and Sada Yacco became the face of it in Paris. An elegant shop called Au Mikado bought the right to use “Yacco” as a brand name. Here, they sold the “Yacco” Guerlain perfume, “Yacco” skin cream, and even “Yacco” candy. But the most popular item was the “Kimono Sada Yacco.” Before the release of Au Mikado’s “Kimono Sada Yacco,” the only women who could afford (Westernized) kimono were the wealthy because of its lavish expense. However, with the introduction of “Kimono Sada Yacco,” ordinary women could afford the look too. The garments sold for a mere 12 to 18 francs. Now everyone could enjoy the exotic lifestyle of Sada Yakko!

An advertisement for “Kimono Sada Yacco”

After returning home to Japan from Paris, Yakko opened her own acting school for women in Tokyo. Applicants were to be aged between 16 and 25, educated to at least the junior high school level, and have two guarantors who were Tokyo homeowners. They were to be educated in history, script writing, traditional and modern acting skills, Japanese and Western dancing, and musical instruments such as the flute, shoulder drum, shamisen, and koto. The course would be two years and wouldn’t cost a yen, but students were expected to perform at the Imperial Theater as part of their practical training. Anyone who left before the two years were up would be charged for the tuition costs that had been waived. Out of 100 applicants, Yakko selected 15 students, and the school opened on September 15, 1908.

Less than a year after Otojiro’s death, perhaps around April 1912, Yakko rekindled her relationship with the married businessman, Momosuke Fukuzawa. They had known each other since childhood and were both in need of some love and support. Although it was not uncommon for married men to seek out mistresses, it was typically done in secret. This, however, was not the case with Yakko and Momosuke. They lived together, traveled together, and flirted with each other so openly that they caused a public scandal. Despite the critics, they both continued to support each other’s careers—Yakko was now starring in acting roles of her own choosing and Momosuke was pursuing several business ventures.

In September 1917, Sadayakko announced her retirement, with her last performance being the lead in the opera, Aida. When Sada retired, she gave up her stage name and geisha name. In 1933, Momosuke was in poor health and they decided that he should move back to his house and wife in Shibuya, and they ended their relationship. They held a solemn ceremony to mark the end—they’d been together for over 20 years. She survived the war, but soon after Japan surrendered, Sada discovered that she had cancer of the liver, which had spread to her throat and tongue. She died on December 7, 1946 at the age of 75.

Sada Yacco was a pioneer of her time, her culture, and her gender. She influenced an entire fashion movement in Paris, and traces of that influence remain today in the form of contemporary Western fashion companies selling “kimono” that resemble more of a duster or long open cardigan. The remaining kimono-inspired fashion of contemporary time is Sada’s cyclicity.

Sada Yakko reading

Sources: “Sada Yacco”; “The Story of Sada Yacco, the Japanese Geisha who Bewitched Europe”; “How Japan’s Most Prominent Geisha Was The Original Beauty Influencer”

Japonisme in Fashion x Cyclicity

Note: I originally wrote this for my company’s blog, ChuMedia Hub.

In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry and his famous black ships arrived in Japan and kicked off the beginning of Western trade. Although Japan was forcefully reopened to the West after having been closed for over 200 years, there is some debate as to whether or not this was ultimately a good thing for Japan. But in this article, we are merely tracing the consequences of its opening and the creation of “Japonisme” in the West.

The French term “Japonisme” emerged to describe the powerful fascination with Japanese art and design that occurred in the West during the late 19th century. Japan was reintroduced to the world, and the world was loving it. The term also refers to the works created by Western artists and designers who were inspired by Japan. While the phenomenon is present in a range of art movements, it is most closely associated with Impressionism, as the Impressionists were influenced by the subject matter, composition, and perspective of Japanese ukiyo-e prints.

Image via artelino

Claude Monet was particularly inspired by Japonisme and had amassed quite the large collection of ukiyo-e prints during his lifetime. I’ve had the privilege to visit his home in Giverny and saw his impressive collection hanging up on the walls of his old home. 

In tune with the popular theme of Japonisme, Monet painted a striking portrait of his first wife Camille in Japanese costume. Camille is wearing a padded and heavily decorated red kimono, standing on a tatami-inspired mat, in front of a wall decorated by Japanese fans. Being a natural brunette, she is shown wearing a blonde wig—perhaps to emphasize the contrast of her as a European woman over the Japanese environment she’s been placed in. The painting evokes a kind of performative appropriation of Japanese culture, rather than an authentic Japanese climate.

La Japonaise by Claude Monet, 1876

One of my favorite painters, Vincent Van Gogh, was also influenced by, and collected, Japanese ukiyo-e prints. In 1887 he produced the work “The Courtesan (after Eisen)”, which was based on the woodcut print of the artist Kesai Eisen. The image had been reproduced on the cover of Paris illustré in 1886. Van Gogh enlarged the figure and used bright colors and bold outlines, in imitation of the ukiyo-e woodcut style. 

The Courtesan (after Eisen) by Vincent Van Gogh, 1887

During the seclusion of the Edo period, the Japanese maintained a strict trade policy with the Dutch through the Dutch East India Company in Nagasaki. In the late sixteenth century, the director of the company and his companions received a “shogun’s gown” as a gift from the shogun. The robe was padded with silk wadding, generous in cut, made of exquisite materials, and very comfortable to wear. The Dutch took these home to Holland, where they became prized as “Japonse rok” (Japanese dressing gowns). They became very popular, appearing in portraits of the time and were even manufactured in other countries.

Image via Huis Van Gjin

Even with the Japonse rok and the opening of Western trade, it was the advent of international expositions in the mid-nineteenth century that thrust Japan into the spotlight. Many Europeans and Americans first saw Japanese artwork and design at the 1862 International Exhibition in London, 1867 in Paris, and 1876 in Philadelphia. Shops selling Japanese wares sprung up in Paris and London during the 1860s and became gathering places for artists and art dealers. Artists began incorporating these “exotic objects” in their paintings, with kimono making its way to the forefront of popularity.

In 1867, the year of the exposition universelle in Paris, Japonisme made its debut in fashion magazines. The October edition of the Journal des demoiselles contained an illustration of clothes labelled “Japanese style”. The June 1 issue of Petit Courrier des dames mentioned “dresses of Japanese silk” purchased by Empress Eugénie, which may have been Japanese kimono. Dresses fashioned from pieces of kimono or made of kimono material began appearing in England and France in the 1860s and 1870s.

Chinese and Japanese Exhibits at 1867 World’s Fair in Paris

Japanese Satsuma Pavilion at the French expo 1867

The most popular item of dress exported to the West was a modified version of the kimono worn as a dressing gown. Kimono had graduated from an exotic Japanese object to a fashionable at-home dress. Western women saw liberation and ease, as well as exoticism, in kimono garments, which consequently saw them adopting them as dressing gowns. Beginning in the 1880s, women’s magazines like Harper’s Bazaar were promoting “Japanese matinees” and dressing gowns of Japanese silk from Liberty and Company of London. It was only until the turn of the century when the word “kimono” came into use.

La parisienne japonaise by Alfred Stevens, 1872

A large contributing factor to the late nineteenth century’s momentum of the kimono was the performing arts. Opera and theater were popular in France, with Japan being quite a popular theme for the stage. In 1885, the Mikado, a performance in which Japanese dress plays a significant role, premiered in London. Through this medium, the knowledge of Japanese kimono gradually spread.

Mikado by Raphael Kirchner, 1900

In 1900, Sada Yacco, the famous Japanese actress, performed in Paris and bewitched the city. Paris was entranced with both her beauty and her skill in wearing kimono, a skill that came naturally to her because of her previous life as a former geisha. She became a sensation and inspiration to many people of influence in the arts—Picasso even sketched her!

Sada Yacco by Pablo Picasso, 1901

Sada Yacco became the star of Paris—the boutique Au Mikado began selling “Kimono Sada Yacco”, and in 1903, every issue of Femina contained an advertisement for them. From around 1905, Le Figaro-Madame often carried advertisements from the House of Babani for “robes japonaises”, Japanese-style garments or dressing gowns. These items were considered the newest addition to an upper-class lady’s peignoir selection and the House of Babani became very successful by selling them.

In 1907, Sada Yacco visited Paris for a second time, and consequently influenced and expanded the role of kimono in the Paris fashion world even further. Her return prompted the emergence of nukiemon (the revealing of the nape of the neck). It soon became the fashionable way to wear kimono. In Paris, kimono were worn as unbelted, sweeping outer robes, similar to the ones seen in ukiyo-e prints. The mikaeri bijin pose (a beautiful woman looking back over her shoulder) became a popular motif found in the pages of fashion magazines.

Beauty Looking Back by Hishikawa Moronobu, 17th century

Charles Frederick Worth, an English couturier and fashion designer, was one of the influential forces in fashion drawn to Japonisme. Beginning in the late 1880s, he started incorporating various elements into his creations through a painterly approach to pattern design, embroidered Japanese motifs, and asymmetrical placement of these motifs. Before Worth, the father of haute couture, asymmetry was rarely found in Western clothes. However, Worth’s fabulous asymmetrical dress changed that.

Beginning in 1890, the Japanese motifs typically favored by the West were chrysanthemums, flowing water, flowers, birds, waves, and various grasses. Chrysanthemums were especially popular, and until the 1920s, they appeared over and over in fashion as a symbol of Japan. Similar, perhaps, to Hokusai’s “Great Wave” iconography, which developed into an emblem of Japan in contemporary times.

Opera Cape by House of Worth, 1899

Ball gown by House of Worth, 1889

Side view of ball gown

Evening dress by House of Worth, 1889

Coat by House of Worth, 1898

Evening dress by House of Worth, 1898-1900

Up until the appearance of Paul Poiret on the Paris fashion scene, Japonisme in fashion was limited to Japanese-style motifs and silk weaving techniques, while the clothes themselves remained Western in shape and form. In 1903, Poiret began to create clothes inspired by the cut, look, and drapery-like quality of a kimono. This inspired a new concept of clothing that emphasized the shoulders, not the waist, and incorporated loosely-cut sleeves and crossed bodices into evening dresses. Evening coats began to swathe the body like comfy cocoons, with their loose-fitting silhouettes and straight cuts. Say goodbye to the corset! Goodbye, corset.

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Madeleine Vionnet, a French fashion designer and couturier, is remembered for liberating  women’s bodies through her clothes (alongside Coco Chanel). Vive la libération! She was inspired by the straight form of Japanese kimono and began creating dresses that were focused on a kimono’s structure in the late 1910s. She abandoned the traditional practice of tailoring body-fitted pieces from numerous and complex pattern pieces and embarked upon a more minimalist approach. She minimized the cutting of fabric and relied on surface ornamentation by manipulating the fabric itself. Vionnet created clothes that flowed over the body from pieces cut along straight lines. She is known for pioneering the idea of the bias cut, which was partly based on the rectangular cut of the kimono. Bias cut fabric stretches as it hangs and clings to the body, draping beautifully, and creating an ethereal rippling effect as the wearer moves.

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Because pioneering designers like Poiret and Vionnet incorporated the straight cut construction of the kimono into their designs, 1920s fashion was increasingly marked by the popular cylindrical dresses we are familiar with today. These silhouettes have come to define this decade for us through film, television, and other costume-related media. Ideas of volume and three-dimensionality were brought to the forefront of dressmaking, as a freer range of form became all the rage. I was surprised myself to find this connection between the iconic kimono and the iconic “flapper” dresses of the 1920s. Another surprising connection is the scale pattern, or seigaiha (blue ocean waves), pattern that was widely used as a popular motif of the Art Deco school. 

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The influence of Japonisme and other “exotic” cultures began to wane in the late 1930s. American and European designers began to create modern versions of historical Western dress that dominated the fashion scene through the 1950s. The revival of familiar historical styles offered up an escape from the stress of the Great Depression and the impending sense of doom with the growing power of nationalism in Europe. Japonisme was abandoned.

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Today, although Japonisme has retired from its previous larger-than-life presence, the influence of Japanese design and aesthetics continues on in the fashion industry. Fashion greats like Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzo Takada, and Hanae Mori still define the fashion landscape today. Whether it be Kawakubo’s consistent defiance of dress stereotypes, or Miyake’s famous pleats collection, it is certain that Japan has more than made its mark on the fashion world. Why else would Kim Kardashian have tried (and failed) to trademark the word “kimono” for herself?

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Sources: “Japonisme”; “Japonism in Fashion”; Brooklyn Museum “Japonism in Fashion”; “How the Kimono has influenced the World of Fashion”; “Japonism’s Influence in Fashion & Art”; Google Arts & Culture “Japonism in Fashion”; “Japonisme”; “Japonism: A Rich History of Artistic Inspiration”; “How Japanese Art Influenced and Inspired European Impressionist Artists”; “7 Things you Need to Know about Japonisme”